Saturday, July 25, 2015

Nothern Germany to southern Denmark

We arrived in Jaderburg, Germany on July18th. We crossed the border in the morning and continued our way north. We were sad to say goodbye to Holland but we were excited to see another part of Germany. 

The cycling through Northern Germany has been pretty flat and nothing but farm lands. We've been avoiding big cities like Hamburg, because they are a mess to cycle through. The weather has been preventing us from getting an early start. In Germany, it rained until mid morning or later so we just wait it out. 

A few things that I noticed while cycling through Germany - Northern Germany is certainly not as scenic as Southern Germany. We cycled passed farms, cows, sheep, and more farms and modern windmills. There were 2 or 3 nuclear power plants that we cycled past and it was mostly flat. So, it was a pretty boring ride compared to the mountains and small cute villages we cycled through in Southern Germany. 
- Public bathrooms don't exist in Germany. None. Northern Germany also had very few secluded areas so it was hard to find any privacy. 
-Supermarkets are few and far between in small villages and in larger towns there are often 2 or more supermarkets. We don't bring a stove or have much room to carry a lot of food, so this was a problem for us. Sometimes we'd cycle for an hour looking for a supermarket. The saving grace for us was bakery's. There were bakery's in every small town. Germans make hundreds of different kinds of bread. Since our diet is mostly based on bread and cheese since it is cheap and easy, we've had a great selection of bread and it was all really good! 

Our last few days in Germany was rainy.  On July 19th we made our way to Bremerhaven, taking 2 ferries to get there to cross rivers that feeds into the North Sea. In Bremerhaven, since it was raining, we decided to stop at the maritime museum. It was a large museum that covered everything from the German Navy, to water sports, to the history of life saving, to polar exhibitions, and so much more. We spent most of the day wondering through the museum and later climbed on a couple historic ships which were available to explore. It was certaintly worth our delay. We cycled another 15 or so kilometers to a campground overlooking the North Sea. 

 One of the few ships we explored

Museum 
Pouring rain -exploring the museum

One of the several ferries we took in Germany. 
At the North Sea! 
Beautiful and secluded camping...

On July 20th we had another long day of cycling. We were working to make up for the short days we've beeninf having due to weather. we cycled 133km to Brunsbuttle, again using the ferry system to cross large rivers. The ferry system must be doing very well in Germany, since there seems to be a lack of bridges. 

On July 21 we crossed into Denmark! We were excited to get out of Germany and experience a new culture and new money! Denmark is not in the euro yet, so we had to exchange our money for the Denmark Krown. Unfortunately, even though we thought we were getting a great deal by exchanging €300 for over 2,000krown, everything costs at least twice as much here. We are paying a lot for food, but thankfully, we did our research and found some sites where there is free camping. The first night we stumbled on a cabin that was unlocked and available. It was a nice retreat to our cramped tent! 

Our first day in Denmark cycled through the historic town of Mogeltonder, where the small village boasts old historic houses and is home to (one of) the prince and princess' homes. 

A great escape from the rain for the night! 

Small roads in Denmark

Cycling through the cute village of Mogeltonder. 

We cycled past small villages on small roads and made our way to the historic village of Ribe, Denmark's oldest city. We arrived in Ribe on the morning of July 22, and we were convinced the town was still asleep, which was odd since it is a touristy town. I'm pretty sure the Danish just don't get out until after noon. We had a full breakfast at a bakery in the old town and walked around the historic city center and church. 

On July 23 we cycled to Billund, birthplace of Legos. We didn't think we'd make it as far north as we did, but Denmark is a really small country, so cycling is going quite a bit more quick than in Germany. Billund itself is a surprisingly desolate city, with little to do except for the main attraction of Legoland. But we bought our tickets to Legoland and were committed to spend the next day revisiting our childhood!

July 24th we made it to Legoland! We went in the morning when it first opened and walked around the "mini land" which was sights all made from Legos- very impressive. I think Martin was more impressed with the Star Wars x-wing fighter completely made from Legos. We quickly grew tired of the crowds and children after lunch and left to cycle another 94km. 

Legoland!!
Yep this guy was all made from Legos! 

Amsterdam- in Legos!

Holland- Lego style!
Kennedy space center- Legos!! 
Last Lego photo I promise. Oil tankers from Legos! 

We cycled to a town called Middlefart. A beautiful seaside town overlooking a section of the Baltic Sea. We are dinner and finally had ourselves a fine hoppy beer. 
Our dinner view in Middlefart

Camels in Middlefart? Why not! 

Middlefart pub. 

It was getting late and we needed to find camping quick so we cycled our of town to a small peninsula off the middle island of Denmark. Thank goodness we found a nice place to camp because weather has been keeping us from cycling, and were "forced" to take a layover day at a beautiful campground overlooking the sea with a sauna! The campground host was so excited that we were from the U.S. that he gave us two nights free camping! 

The pier at the campground 


Tomorrow we plan to cycle towards Copenhagen and decide on whether we will take a ferry from there to Poland or go to Sweden and take a ferry from there. 

Friday, July 17, 2015

Holland: a cycle tourists dream

We Since tomorrow will be our last day in Holland, I thought now would be a good time to update you all on this amazing country. 

I left my last post off in Rotterdam. We managed to break our distance record with a lot of help from the wind and some detours. 

As soon as we crossed the border into Holland the cycling got easier. Clear signs to Rotterdam just for cyclists and the infrastructure just for bicycles is astounding! 
In the first city we cycled through called Roosendal, we saw this e-bike plug-in, which are in most city centers in Holland. We don't see this in the States. 
Seriously amazing bike paths everywhere. 

Since we had the wind at our backs and the cycling seemed easy, we decided to take a detour to Kinderdijk. This is a well-known area where the famed wind-mills line the canals. We bikes up and down the canals and took photos of these beautiful windmills. 

We finally made it to our hosts house later than we thought, tired and drained from the very long day of cycling. Our hosts, Karen and Giji, were kind enough to let us stay. We made food, told stories of current and past cycling trips and planned for the next day. 

Rotterdam!
Houseboat in Rotterdam. 

On July 11th we made our way to Wassenaar, where our friends from Alaska currently live. We were excited to visit Annette, Jeff, and meet their little girl Elsa! We were able to spend a bit of time with them, hear how life is as an expat in Holland, and eat the best ice cream we've had so far! 
Annette and I
Playing with Elsa at the Beach! 
Best. Ice cream. Ever. 

Saying our goodbyes and off to Amsterdam we bike! 

July 12, after a half a day at Annette's and Jeff's house, we slowly made our way to Amsterdam. Thankfully, it is only about 60km to the city center, so it was a relaxing short day. We bicycled around the airport for what felt like forever. The airplanes landing seemed so close, I felt like I could jump up and touch them. We arrived at the campground at about 5:00pm. Since this is Amsterdam, the campground was not empty, nor was it quiet. We were going to check out the city that night, but Martin wasn't feeling well so we had an early evening, unlike everyone else in the campground. 

On July 13, we decided to spend one more night in Amsterdam. We started our day waiting in line for the Van Gogh Museum. This museum was wonderful, besides the crowd of people. It was difficult to ignore all the people when you are fighting to catch a glimpse of paintings or read the descriptions. 


We walked up and down the canals through the red light district, past coffee shops, and finally we found a brewery.
If you know us, you know we like our beer! 

We wanted to go into a coffee shop, but we wouldn't even know what to do since neither of us like marijuana. It was good enough to walk past them, trust me. 


The canals of Amsterdam 


On July 14th we had a late start. Since my chain broke the night before, and I couldn't fix it myself, we had to walk my bike to a bike shop. Thankfully they are all over and we got it fixed in no time! We left at noon and made our way through small towns following some long distance routes. The canals line this country like roads. They are everywhere. 

Waiting for the bridge to let sailboats through. 

We stumbled on an open wind mill and went inside to see the grinding at work. 
Grinding dye for paint

The windmill at work
Martin at the top. 

After that we continued on through canals past houseboats and sail boats. We cycled through small farming communities, and as we got closer to the North Sea, some vacation communities.  

Holland is Flat! 

We found a hidden area within the sand dunes, where we set up our tent. 

Dinner in the sand dunes. 



Sand dunes 

Our home for the night. 

The next morning we woke up to drizzling rain. We decided to wait the weather out, so we packed up and left at about 2:00pm. Even with the late start, and rainy weather, we still managed to bike 110km, since the wind pushed us north. We cycled past beautiful fields of flowers, which gave color to our grey day. 


Late in the day we cycled on Hollands longest bridge, the Afsluitdijk, which is more of a spit of land than a bridge.

On July 16, we cycled 89km, straight into the strong wind. I didn't take any photos this day because I was too busy battling the strong winds. When the wind is on your side in Holland you are cruising, otherwise I feel like I am just struggling to keep my bike from drifting into a canal! We fought long and hard and decided to camp at the very next campground. Thankfully, the campground owner provided us with a hot meal and beer, which at that point was much needed. 

Today, July 17, we started the day cycling into the wind. We bicycled through Lauwersmeer National Park. We changed our route halfway to our destination to bicycle with the wind, which made a huge difference. We arrived at our hosts home in Finsterwold in good time. Our host, a former member of Parliament, and current dairy farmer gave us a tour of his farm and the area, which is just 30 km from the German border. He told us about the engineering that goes into the water systems here to prevent floods and salt water contamination. 

I am sad to be leaving Holland. The bike paths and lanes are amazing here. So many resources has gone into developing the cycling system here with the special long distance routes, maps every few kilometers, and signs everywhere. I thought Germany cycling signs were good, but Holland is by far the best I've seen. 

Map of Holland and all the Long distance routes. 

Monday, July 13, 2015

Cycling through Belgium

Cycling through Belgium was certainly very different than cycling through Germany. Our days were long and we worked to pack on the kilometers. Since we didn't know any better, we cycled the National Route 4, which is pretty much a highway, all the way to Namur. Our time in southern Belgium was not enjoyed, as I'm sure you can imagine. There were no bike lanes in sight, and often no shoulder on rt. 4, plus the hills made for a more challenging ride. 

So, we were excited to stop for a day or two. Thankfully and luckily the Tour De France gave us an opportunity to slow down our pace and watch the fast cyclists speed by! This was our first opportunity to see the tour and we are so lucky we did, since it was completely unplanned! The tour went quickly up the hill of the citadel, which is a dominant feature in the historic city of Namur. 



Our seats were obviously the best! We sat next to these other cycle tourists from Britain who were telling us all about the tour and their trip - they were following the tour. 

Martin and I waiting for the tour to come through. It was hours of waiting with just minutes of excitement, but totally with the wait and layover day! 



In the evening, we cooked dinner for our host and he took us around town to see the sights. He let me use his E-bike, which was so fun! 
One of the many statues in Namur. 

Namur, a view from the Citadel

Statue called "measuring the clouds" 

Our host told us a different way to leave the city and a nice bike path to Brussels. So, on July 8th we set out for Brussels. We figured it would be a short day, about 60km but, of course we ended up taking a really long route, and ended up off course. So we ended up cycling about 90km to Brussels. The city had bike paths and a lot more cyclists than Namur. We camped in this weird little campground right in the center of the city. Honestly, it felt like a homeless camp. But it had showers and toilets. 
City center in Brussels was magnificent. It was huge and obviously hard to take pictures because of all the tourists! 

We were ready to leave Brussels. Some of the streets were really confusing and we were ready to continue our way North. On July 9 we had a relaxing ride to Antwerp - bike lanes the whole way! Antwerp is actually a really fun city and it felt a lot more organized than Brussels. There were a lot more bicyclists going to and from work. Northern Belgium feels a lot more bicycle friendly. 

In Antwerp Martin and I were on a mission of beer and chocolate. We knew it would be our last full day in Belgium so we had to taste more Belgian chocolate and beer! Martin found this crazy little pub with hundreds of beers listed. The bar was very popular but with very few seats. I'm pretty sure the owner was a pack rat because there were boxes everywhere! 
Martin looking through the book of beers

At the quirky little pub


We left around 8:30 am on July 10 we started our loooong treck to Rotterdam in Holland. As soon as we got close to the border of Holland the bike lanes got wider, the bicycling became more enjoyable, and it was flat! We crossed the border and it was heaven. Bicycling in Holland so far is the best we've experienced. The bike lanes are separate from the roads and from sidewalks. We biked to just outside of Rotterdam, and decided to take a short detour to Kinderdijk, where there are picturesque windmills lining the canals. 
Kinderdijk 

We already had exceeded our record by the time we biked to the windmills, so by the time we got to our hosts house we had cycled 177km or about 109 miles! It was a long day but worth every kilometer.  It is good to be in Holland!