The Great Walks - The Abel Tasman Coastal Track

Marcin and I were a little unsure of The Great Walks. The Great Walks in New Zealand are "premier tracks that pass through diverse and spectacular scenery. From native forests, lakes, and rivers to rugged mountain peaks, deep gorges and vast valleys", according to the Department of Conservation. In other words, the tracks are crowded with tourists groups, school groups, and any other groups you can think of. They aren't the type of hiking trail we normally like to go on.

We had plans to get on the Routeburn Track but it was totally booked until March. We were looking into it in late January. Since we couldn't get on that track we decided to hit the Caples Track, which was a pleasant walk in the same area as Routeburn, just one valley over. We started this track where the Routeburn ends and turned off at the last hut of the Great Walk. We were amazed by the conveniences of the hut - running water, FLUSH toilets, and 28 bunks in this large hut. This is why we were unsure of setting off on a Great Walk - it just didn't seem right to have flush toilets on a hiking trail.

  

 A paper plate version of my sister was carried everywhere in NZ. It is a family tradition, kind of. Anyway, this was at the pass on the Caples Track. 

 

Having Lunch at the Saddle 

Our uncertainty for Great Walks quickly blew over when we learned more about the Abel Tasman Coast Track. This 3-5 day track follows the northern coast in Abel Tasman National Park. The track is an easy coast walk - with a couple sections of planning due to tide changes. We were thinking of doing just a day trip in and out, but were convinced by a couple of our drivers that the entire walk is well worth the time and trouble. 

We set out early and beat the crowds. We were surprised by the lack of people on the trails. The first sections of the trail were in bush but still had excellent views of light blue sea and golden beaches. The track was more like a road - wide and hard packed. 

On the way out to the Abel Tasman Coast Track!

 

Lovely views along the Coastal Track

 Marcin and I did the treck in three days, because there were limited campsites available. You have to book The Great Walks far in advance, since they are so popular, but we were lucky. Our first camp was at Anchorage Camp (fitting for us). We got there super early in the day, but were happy to lay out on the beach and people watch. This camp is very busy, with water taxis, kayaks, groups, hikers, boaters, you name it! We both thought we would be annoyed by all the commotion at the camp, but being at the beach made us a bit more relaxed, I guess. 

 

 Excellent Views from our first camp

The second day was a bit longer, with a tide crossing that was only accessible at about 8:30 p.m. We started early again to beat the heat. Thankfully on this track we can take a couple hour break and hang out on the beach, if the sandflies don't eat you alive. We were at our campsite by 9:00 p.m.

 

Our view hiking along the golden sand beaches

 

 One of the many bridges along the track

The last day was just as good. There were a lot less people on the track and on the beaches, which made it feel a bit more isolated. Kayaks and water taxis don't go past a certain point, which makes for some great beach camping and hiking. A word of advice for anyone interested - book Mutton Cove campsite. We weren't able to because it was booked, but it is quiet and small beach camping. Looked inviting. The camping was very convenient, so much so that there were flush toilets and wifi (!!!) at Anchorage Camp. The other camps weren't as crowded, so if you'd like to avoid the crowds, maybe walk further the first day and avoid that area.

Overall, I would say this was one of our favorite hiking tracks. We were surprised how much we enjoyed and and I am glad that we were able to do the track in its entirety.

Crossing the tides